 |
| An Advent into the Har-Ki-Doon - God's Own Valley at 11,700 Feet. |
It was the fateful day of 3rd January 2015 when I embarked upon an amazing adventure to Har-Ki-Doon which holds a lot of historical and spiritual importance since the Mahabharat Era (around 3167 BC) when the catastrophic war of Kurukshetra was fought .The Legend says that the Protagonists of Mahabharata - The Five Pandav Brothers ascended to heaven taking a similar trail in this region .The Har-Ki-Doon is a pathway to the unconquered Swargarohini Peak which has never been climbed till this date (controversy still haunts this claim) and is considered to have a secret path to heaven wherein a person can go there in his mortal body . Since childhood such legendary stories truly ignited an insatiable curiosity in me which like a thirst could only be quenched by wandering in the wilderness of Har-Ki-Doon someday.
This strong desire began to fructify gradually into reality when I began planning for a winter vacation towards the end of 2014 . The Mystic mountains of Himalayas were always on the top of my mind while planning, as my past Summer Expedition to 'Chandrakhani Pass' in 2014 had developed a great infatuation for natural beauty imbedded in these young fold mountains .
I searched for popular winter expeditions to Himalayas wherein two names 'Har-Ki-Doon' and 'Kedarkantha Peak' came across the horizon of my mind . My fanciful childhood dream to explore the historical trail taken by Pandavas didn't yielded even an inch of space to the later option to eclipse the former one . Thus a Winter Expedition to 'Har-Ki-Doon' became a new purpose in my life but I still was in quest for a right medium which could launch me into this vast valley of mythical pulchritude.
Ultimately 'Indiahikes' was that medium that connected me to this Valhalla of Gods which transported me into a totally different realm where many stories were narrated through it's tender quietness . Every moment was an enthralling one as Har-Ki-Doon was surprising me with a new challenge every time . It was like opening a page of the comic book Tintin in Tibet for real . This Winter Expedition has truly changed me a lot as a person as it was like 'Going where no ordinary man has gone before'
In order to give you a glimpse of this epic adventure I am presenting a 'Photo blog' below here, where every picture along with a suitable caption shall take you on a virtual journey to 'Har-Ki-Doon' through my eyes . I am also providing a 'Travel Diary' for those with a literary taste , so that my words are able to cast the same magic spell as I hope my photography would . Thus a mix of my pictures and words shall be your chariot on which I shall take you in a wonderland of epic proportions ......
DAY 1 - A PLAY OF THE GODS : 'From Awe To Shock' !!
It was 2nd of January 2015, when all the exuberance following a fantastic New Year's celebration was about to be transformed into a zeal for a thrilling adventure into the mystic mountains of the Himalayas. The night was dark and cold adored with raindrops falling like arrows from the sky, as I quietly embarked from my home to 'New Delhi' railway station to catch the late night train 'Nanda Devi' express to 'Dehradun' which is the state capital of Uttarakhand , the spiritual heart of India.
The night train was full of bumpy co-passengers who despite their unintentional irritations couldn't subdue my formidable desire of a sound sleep. It was 5.30 am the next morning as the chatters on the platform of 'Dehradun' triggered my subconscious mind to wake me up from a state of seemingly unconsciousness to a state of perfect consciousness. Much like 'New Delhi' it was cold and raining outside as I came out in hope of catching the cabs arranged by Indiahikes to transport me from 'Dehradun' to 'Taluka' which was the base camp of our expedition.
At 7 am sharp our humble group of nine trekkers departed in two cabs from the railway station. The faint shades of daylight began to pass through the grey prism of clouds as we began experiencing further drop in temperature as the cabs ascended from Dehradun towards the hill station of Mussorie. Our cab driver Charan stopped his sturdy Tata Sumo near Kempty falls in Mussorie where we had a small breakfast of Paranthas with Hot Coffee which was working like an elixir in the freezing morning wherein the rain was showing no signs of relenting.
 |
| Day 1 : At 8.30 AM we reach Mussorie from Dehradun for breakfast on a rainy day. What a view as clouds ascends up in a stunning spectacle. |
As we began to feel the chill outside it became highly important to introduce some pleasant 'distraction' which came in form of 'music' . Our fellow trekker 'Akash Jain's' speakers playing some really awesome soulful tracks were lifting our enthusiasm all the more . Time passed away as we reached 'Purola' a hill town at noon , which was the last place where telecom connectivity and ATM service was available on our route .
 |
| Day 1 : At around 12.30 PM we reach Purola which is the last major town where phone connectivity is available |
After lunch we began ascending from 'Purola' towards the higher slopes of Garhwal region as clouds and rain drops began to welcome us as we moved on the neat roads carved through the tall alpine forests of the region . None of us could barely sleep as heartwarming landscapes on the route ensured our eyes were wide awakened in amazement . The crystal clear water of River Tons or Tamsa coupled with orange grass and green rhododendrons reaffirmed our notion that god is the best painter of all .
 |
| Day 1 : We move from Mussorie towards Purola as the lovely countryside welcomes us with vibrant colours |
 | ||
Day 1 : As we ascend from Purola to Sankri we encounter the fine Alpine trees on the mountain tops
|
It was 5 PM in the evening when we reached the village of 'Sankri', where we were stopped by officials of Indiahikes who informed that heavy rainfall and snowfall has made the route ahead dangerous . Thus the unforeseen circumstances ensured that not 'Taluka' but 'Sankri' was our new base camp where soon everything was about to change like in a typical action thriller movie. Every adventure has it's own share of hopes and despairs but we never imagined that so soon a big despair much darker and murkier than black clouds above was looming large over the entire expedition.
 |
| Day 1 : At 5 PM we reach Sankri which is our Base Camp for the Winter Expedition to Har Ki Doon Valley . It is raining heavily and snowing on the upper reaches as the danger of the expedition being called off due to bad weather looms large |
It was nearly dusk when a tall figure enveloped in dark clothes emerged out in the open. He was our mountain coordinator 'Saranbir' who without wasting much time in a blunt tone placed out the facts that current bad weather conditions had placed the entire journey into jeopardy even before it had began. In all the likelihood our expedition had reached a dead end from where reaching Har-Ki-Doon valley had become a seemingly impossible task.
However my deep faith now emboldened with unrelenting exuberance and boundless optimism refused to give up and further encouraged me to prophesize that by morning the skies shall be ruled by the Sun God 'Surya' who shall bless our expedition which had already turned into a mighty challenge by the Rain God 'Indra'. Leaving the divine matters aside we now ran into our cottages to prepare ourselves for the frigid zone in making outside. I was wearing a t-shirt inside a black winter jacket along with an alpinist balaclava to ensure that I had enough layers which on one hand could protect me from harsh cold but also allow my body to acclimatize with the weather conditions outside .
It was a total blackout in Sankri as there was no power due to incessant rains turning the village into a Gothic castle shrouded in darkness . It was 8 PM in the night when we began scrambling for dinner in the dim light arranged in a rest house by India Hikes. At dinner we were served simple vegetarian food with potato curry , pulses and Indian bread along with a delicious bournvita milk . After moderately sufficing our appetite it was time for some sleep after a really long day where situation was changing so drastically all the time . It was 9.30 PM as we bid good night to each other and had deepest notion of suspense in our heart as we slept away like logs while it still rained outside.
DAY 2 - RAYS OF HOPE - "Acclimatisation In Sankri"
I gasped in horror on being swallowed slowly and gradually by a quagmire of snow in a strange valley surrounded by mountains . As I was engulfed completely I immediately began to slide through a crevasse dropping me on a strange meadow which was covered totally with blue colored snow. The melancholy of loneliness over there was about to shatter my senses as I jumped out of my blanket to realize that a nightmare like a bolt of lightning had sent shivers down my spine. It was 7.10 AM on the clock, the time to leave numbness behind and embrace all the surprises that lied ahead .
As soon I opened the door of my cottage I was ecstatic to see that sky was shining as blue as a sapphire with the cohorts of Sun finally coming to the rescue of our withering cause. However all the barren mountains in the vicinity had turned white like pearls of Basra due to heavy snowfall overnight . As we moved for our breakfast we were told by Saranbir that despite the good weather conditions developing so far, our expedition group shall stay for one more day at Sankri, which was a departure from our original planned tour .
 |
| Day 2 : The mountains above Sankri turn white due to heavy snowfall overnight . |
 |
| Day 2 : The Himalayan ranges visible across Sankri which we shall cross in the coming days in order to reach Har Ki Doon Valley. |
Adored with our trekking gear and bereft of our rucksacks we began walking towards village side of Sankri township . We were joined on the way by Mr. Hemang Gala who had just a few days back lead an expedition to Kedarkantha Peak and was now going to be one of our Trek leaders . On reaching the village side we began descending from Sankri towards the rocky basin of River Supin down below .
 |
| Day 2 : The Sunshine penetrates the formidable defense of the wet alpine forests of Sankri in a stunning display |
Due to the overnight rain the surface had become quite muddy and slippery which had to be addressed very cautiously during our descent . Thanks to the Forclaz 600 Trekking boots and Arpenaz Trekking pole, I was able to get a firm grip on the wet surface which enabled me to move swiftly . However my new found confidence was about to meet it's early departure as I had nice slip on a slippery rock with my buttocks down on the ground . I immediately made a quick recovery to avoid being a stimulus for a few chuckles on the faces of my trek mates who were still a little far away .
 |
| Day 2 : Trekking down the slopes carefully (Pic Courtesy - Akshay Jain) |
 |
| Day 2 : I was mesmerized at these lovely mountain cliffs . We lost 1 day of the trek due to bad weather but nevertheless it was compensated by such lovely views on the course of our acclimatization walks |
 |
| Day 2 : Standing ahead of an old bridge that had been made over River Supin |
 |
| Day 2 : The heartwarming viewing of River Supin which is the main tributary of River Tons which is in turn the major tributary of River Yamuna in India |
 |
| Day 2 : The Water of the river sparkles as it mates with the sunshine being showered by the Sun God smiling above |
 | |||||||||
| Day 2 : Lovely cute kids coming over to greet new strangers in their village . |
 |
| Day 2 : Posing in my Black Outfit after the end of acclimatization walk . It is good to find some sunshine in such a freezing temperature out there |
As the sunset behind the Horizon a starry sky began to appear with Moon ruling the roost out there . On Gazing that clear sky above the snowy peaks it was a surreal atmosphere in the making. It was a night of self introspection as an adventure full of surprises was about to unfold in uncertain circumstances which had assumed the epithet of a 'Challenge' by now. As time flew so did our senses as we slept in the bright winter night lit by the moonshine
Day 3 : A RACE AGAINST TIME : "Rush Hour In The Himalayas"
Thud Thud Thus !! A Loud noise on the door woke everyone up in their rooms as morning beverage was being served as a customary gesture by the local staff of Indiahikes. The dilemma of what to pack or what to leave behind contributed immensely to the build up of a rush hour scenario as we scrambled for things everywhere . Almost an hour behind our planned schedule we assembled for departure only to realize that the packing of our rucksacks needs to be re-arranged to accomodate the newly issued gaiters and warm inners for sleeping back .
Finally we departed at 9 AM in two huge jeeps which took us on a 10 km long safari through the dense Alpine Forest that separates Sankri from Taluka. Although our brief moto tour was blessed with a stunning view of the landscapes around, however it was a bumpy ride on a surface which cannot remotely be given the title of 'road' . Meanwhile adding to the fun, the drivers played the local folk music on full decibels with such catchy beats, on which I fought my impulse to sway, only to find myself capitulate in the end .
 |
| Day 3 : We move from Sankri to Taluka Village in a short Jungle Safari across the Thick Forest . |
 | |||||
| Day 3 : The Har-Ki-Doon Valley appears so near and is yet so far away |
In an hour we reached Taluka where patches of snow were clearly visible everywhere. On getting down our wait was further extended by 45 minutes as our staff had to organize final arrangements for our expedition. Mr Chaman along with Mr Hemang and another trek leader Mr Jai Singh in a brief session outlined the objectives for the expedition ahead.
So as per the new revelation it was 'A Race against time' on the cards as we had to complete a 14 KM stretch from Taluka to Osla village within a time span of 6 hours before the dusk sets in . It was explained that further ahead River Supin was dividing the two mountain ranges which were overseeing her mythical waters from the above . The idea of our expedition was to trek across the mountain range on our righthand side for 13 KM and then cross River Supin to the mountain range on our left hand . A further steep ascent of 1 KM led to Osla village beyond which lied the way to Har-Ki-Doon.
 | ||
Day 3 : India Hikes and fellow Trekkers engage in organizing for the beginning of the expedition
|
The dense Alpine forest on our right side was shielding us from the sun shining in the bright blue sky above . As the path ahead narrowed down the presence of snow enhanced forcing us to dig in our heel all the time when we walked ahead . Our stamina began to be put on the test as we covered half way through . I never imagined truly how heavy my rucksack was as every ounce inside it began exerting it's fair share of strain on my back .
 |
| Day 3 : We encounter a lot of snow in our path all the way along and it grows more and more as we walk further ahead |
 | ||||||||||
Day 3 : Crossing one of many such bridges across River Supin
|
 | ||
Day 3 : The Ghanggar Village reminded me so much of my favourite comic book Tintin in Tibet
where there were similar villages falling in the expedition of Tintin
and Captain Haddock who try to rescue their friend who is lost in the
mountains of Tibet.
|
 |
| Day 3 : At 5.00 PM we have covered nearly 13 KM out of 14 KM as we shall now camp besides the foothill of the Osla Village which is still 1 KM of steep climbing ahead . In front you can see the peaks turning orange as the sunsets behind us . |
 |
| Day 3 : Bye bye guys it is time to move inside my camp and relax after a day that refuses to end for me |
 |
| Day 3 : Resting under a Shining Moon with snow around everywhere. (Pic courtesy Akshay Jain) |
Tired after a long day everyone was eying the bed to take rest in their respective camps . Due to lack of Oxygen at higher altitude and freezing temperature a sound sleep became a distant dream . I had to close my eyes pretending to be sleeping while hoping that those pretentions may turn into a reality soon .
The day of run was over and now the day of climb was about to begin ........
Day 4 : THE TRIPLE ASCENT : "A Momentous Gain By Virtue of Pain"
Pak Pak Pakka Pak Pak !! Lethargy partly due to a disturbed sleep and intense cold outside had turned us into those new born chickens who take all the time in the world to hatch out of their eggs (which was the tents in our case) . As winding up of the campsite began our dear mother hen Mr. Chaman had instructions for the day for all the new born chickens who had awakened to the world outside by now.
Our expedition group was aiming for a push towards Har-Ki-Doon Valley which was 15 KM of intense trekking from Chittugarh campsite . It was going to be even more arduous than yesterday as we would be ascending most of the time .
Seeing such a task of epic proportions in front of us we immediately sung into action .Wasting no time we left Chitturgarh campsite at 9 AM to cross the bridge over River Supin and now moving into the mountain range on the left hand side . As we began ascending a deep contrast began to emerge in front of our eyes . It was clearly visible that while the mountain range on the right hand side on which we were walking so far was completely covered with snow; the mountain range on the left hand side was as brown as a brick . The reason for this natural contrast was that the since the left hand side mountains faced the sun all the time hence most of the snow melted immediately while the shady right hand side mountains had their snow cover intact.
 |
| Day 4 : The toughest thing to do early in the day is to climb a steep ascent which nearly broke the back of everyone out there . |
 |
| Day 4 : One can clearly see the contrast of the mountain side on left hand side which is barren and brown without snow at all in comparison to the mountain side on right hand side which is full of snow . |
It was a grueling ascent all the way up which took us nearly an hour to reach upto a point where we could see the forbidden village above us . So Folks !! This was the famous mountain village of Osla which was the last place inhabitable before we hit the Banderpunch range towards Har-Ki-Doon . The Village was nicely entrenched on the mountain with wooden cottages full of cattle , shrubs and curious villagers . We kept on moving through the village until we reached the Shiva Temple where we briefly halted . That 1 km of ascent today appeared like trekking 5 km yesterday . As the temple was the center of the village hence most of the villagers were around trying to know who were these new strangers who came to this part of the world in this weather .
 |
| Day 4 : The Osla Village reminded me of another Tintin Book - Prisoners of the Sun where Tintin and Captain haddock trek the mountains of Peru to rescue their friend Professor Calculus from Incas. |
 | ||
Day 4 : Stretching my back muscles after a steep ascent of 1 km .
|
It is always a romantic ideal to visualize being in the laps of nature by living in such mountain villages . However when we began to look deeper into the daily life struggles of these innocent villagers it came as a rude shock to us that how they were all managing to be so cheerful despite facing a number of odds over there .
To begin with 'health' and 'education' the two pivotal points around which Indian Government has been building the foundation of good governance was missing in Osla . The entire village was bereft of any medical center or doctor . In event of a person falling sick he/she had to be carried all the way to Sankri for proper medication . Even the medicines for every common ailment had to be fetched from far flung towns . The children only came to the village during the vacations as in absence of any school they had to live far away from home for their primary education .
Truly it was distressing to see how these simple minded and innocent beings literally fight everyday to lead their life in such appalling circumstances without losing their beacon of hope . This entire village was connected with the rest of the nation through a satellite phone which was their only salvation in a state of bereftness . However what made me admire was their unflinching belief in the idea of India which one day will make their life too an accomplished one .
The emotional moment at Osla village slowly receded as we began moving on our way ahead. After a long set of trekking we began to find snow on what so far had been a mountain side anemic to this white powder . The surprises were just beginning when we came across another very steep ascent which was about to test the endurance of my back already loaded with a heavy rucksack .
This new ascent was not an easy one as there was snow all up the way making it difficult to gain a strong foothold as we moved in a zigzag pattern . The slow movers were making it difficult for those like me who preferred to step at a little more brisk speed . Completion of this second ascent literally sapped me out of energy and tore my lower back apart . Nevertheless we moved on further ahead as we had only completed 5 KM out of 15 KM of our targetted distance .
 |
| Day 4 : The narrow tracks cutting across the mountains where one's heart is in the mouth while traveling on them . A moment after the 2nd ascent . |
Barely we had moved a few hundred meters that an action replay of the previous ascent was eagerly waiting for us . At this point one realizes that whether it is trekking or mountain climbing , it is all a mind game beyond the point when your physical fitness begins to falter . The thought which propelled me to embrace this bundle of pain was that I had no option but to do it . This time more slower than before I gradually climbed all the way up with all the tribulation on my strenuous back . It was very hard to visualize how would we manage to cover 15 KM with the vast expanse of snow slowing us considerably at the end of the day when we barely had reached 7 KM so far .
 |
| Day 4 : At 2 PM this is the 3rd steep ascent which is narrow as well as slippery gave frights to everyone who was climbed it. |
 |
| Day 4 : At 3.00 PM it has been nearly 8 km as our spines have been rattled beyond belief. The trail is leading to Kalkattidhar where we shall camp for the night . |
At this point of Dilemma , Mr Jai Singh Raghav came up with a breaking news to my delight that it has been decided to camp at a place called as 'Kalkattidhar' which was 1 KM away . It was around 2.30 PM when we reached 'Kalkattidhar' where there was another expedition group already camped and basking in the sunlight . This was the expedition group from South India organized by 'Summiters' .
As we all began to prepare the flat ground on a terrain full of snow it was very kind of the owner of 'Summiters' , Mr Bacchan Rana to lend a hand with us in getting our camps assembled . It was a pleasure seeing that while India Hikes and Summiters were competing groups yet the ambiance of Himalayas united them to work so coherently with each other . This for me is the true spirit of an adventurer who despite competing with other adventurers is always willing to extend his hand on assistance to them in times of need .
 |
| Day 4 : At 3.30 PM we are informed that Har-Ki-Doon Valley is almost impenetrable due to heavy snow which forces us to camp at Kalkatidhar along with another Expedition Group which failed to reach Har-Ki-Doon Valley. |
So as our campsite got ready the Summiters meanwhile had organized a huge bonfire which we had missed so far in our expedition . As both the trekking groups sat together to watch the stunning spectacle of sunset on the western side of the horizon it appeared that there was a fresh snowfall taking place already on the eastern side of the horizon . We came to learn that the Summiters had pushed in the early morning towards Har-Ki-Doon but stopped only after 2 KM as the snow was thick upto knee length making it difficult to walk ahead .
It is always very difficult to make a trail ahead with fresh snow which has fallen all over the place . The one leading such a group has to face maximum difficulty as he need extra energy to create proper footing for the others to tread upon . Thus it proved to be very strenuous for Summiters to move ahead as heavy snow that too on narrow path proved to be a herculean task for them . It was very much understandable as even the locals of the region refrain to go to Har-Ki-Doon in this period of the winter season . The locals back at Sankri thought of us as half crazy to be going there .
 |
| Day 4 : The stunning view of the Greater Himalayas ahead of us at Kalkatidhaar from where we can easily spot a fresh snowfall taking place on the peaks ahead. |
 | ||
Day 4 : A Huge Bonfire is just what the doctor ordered as both the Expedition groups rush into the refuge of Fire God.
|
Nevertheless the evening was getting mesmerizing as jokes and laughter was everywhere . Both Mr Chaman and Mr Bacchan had many legendary stories to share with us . Over there both of them with tremendous authority at command emphatically pronounced that Swargarohini Peak which is lies further ahead of Har-Ki-Doon has never been scaled successfully . Owing to be a very technical peak along with unpredictable weather conditions that change within a few minutes had rendered this peak an unresolved problem for the most seasoned mountaineers .
There was also a legend that since Swargarohini Peak as per the Scripture of Mahabharat hosts the secret doorway to heaven for mortal beings hence there are divine forces at play which hamper even the best of men from scaling this virgin mountain peak . This assertion gains strength from the question that when the legendary warriors of India like Bheem and Arjun could perish climbing this monstrous challenge of nature then how would ordinary mortals despite the best of equipments could scale it with success .
As the sunset was on the horizon everyone clamoured around the edge of the Kalkattidhar to capture this enigmatic moment . As the mercury began to fall drastically along with the sun I rushed fast to grab hold of my 'North Face' Summit jacket . 'North Face' of Mount Eiger in Switzerland which had a similar reputation like Swargrohini Peak took enormous human sacrifices and effort to finally be scaled . We didn't faced any Mission Impossible tomorrow but the challenge to reach Har-Ki-Doon 7 km away and to come back before sunset in thick snow with severly cold conditions along narrow paths was looking like a recipe of a great accomplishment .
 |
| Day 4 : I capture this awesome moment as the Sun sets behind the Kedarkanth Peak of Himalayas near Har Ki Doon Valley. |
At night we were clearly briefed to leave early in the morning by 7.30 AM sharp . We were issued Microspikes to be attached to our trekking boots so that we get firm grip on a surface full of snow and ice . The Gaiters were mandatory as thick layers of snow didn't penetrate into our boots rendering us unable to walk . The call for an early rise wasn't an effective stimulus for everyone to hit the bed . The bonfire like a magnet attracted everyone to itself where we all could find a warm refuge from a night colder than we had ever experienced so far in our sojourn .
Soon to everyone's delight Uncle Moon was up in his full might illuminating the landscape of mountains and valley into a Silver dream . The view of the night was priceless . It was 9.30 PM in the night when we decided to go into our respective tents. The boys Uchit , Mayank and Akshay were playing hit songs of vangabond to which we all were humming inside out tent . Slowly as the night caved in we were resting in moment of peace before the break of the dawn when the D-Day was about to begin.
Day 5 : THE FINAL ASSAULT : "Intrusion into the Valhalla of Gods"
As per a popular idiom, a thunder is always preceded and succeded by an eerie silence . Such was the quietness holding the moment when I woke up at 6 AM . However the serenity of this precious moment began to dissipate due to the intrusion of the cold mountain winds which were blowing hard enough to shake the tents of everyone out there . An unlikely sense of urgency marked the morning as everybody aware of the vitality of time was getting ready as fast as possible .
At 7 AM the preparation of the 'Great Assault' on God's Valhalla was in full gear . Rising to the occasion we assembled like Gladiators in Colosseum to adore ourselves with our new armour in form of microspikes and gaiters meant to carve our way against thick snow posing as the biggest obstacle on our path to glory. However our rucksacks wouldn't be accompanying us in this moment of test as we had to return to the same campsite before the dusk sets in . This separation was not at all painful as my back would be eased of the bundle of suffering which I had been carrying so far .
 |
| DAY 5 : Posing with my trek leader Hemang Gala before our great adventure unfolds in the laps of Har-Ki-Doon Valley |
 |
| DAY 5 : We are beginning to ascend up the trail which is cutting the mountain across on the edge on the right hand side . |
 |
| DAY 5 : 8.15 AM We escalate nearly 700 meters ahead to see Har-Ki-Doon Valley ahead with Black Peak standing tall |
 |
| DAY 5 : All geared up in my Alpinist Avatar with gaiters and microspikes being my armor and trekking pole being my sword |
Very soon we encountered a delicacy which is the sole monopoly of a winter expedition . A frozen waterfall where despite the outer layer being frozen water continued to pour down in the inner layer onto a stream . We stayed there for a while watching this unique art of nature right in front of us .
It was end of the trail which the 'Summiters' had made for us . From here onwards we had to make our own fresh trail by stepping into the virgin snow that was as thick 3 to 4 feet . The most difficult task was that of the one leading the expedition as his legs would have to apply the extra effort needed to make the trail for the others behind . Seeing this challenge our tough trekking boots now armed with sharp microspikes and supported by gaiters began to trample and grind snow as we surged ahead .
 | ||
DAY 5 : Our Trek Guide Mr. Chaman leading from the front as he makes the new trail in front of us amidst Heavy Fresh Snow which has fallen there.
|
It was increasingly appearing to us that the decision to camp at Kalkattidhar was a prudent one owing to so much of snow being present which would have made camping impossible . We began taking turns while leading the expedition across vast meadows completely covered under the snow . Cramps got better of my leg while leading the expedition group for a long duration . It slowed down my speed a lot but it was not only me as others began to falter as well by walking in snow which was reaching almost waist height .
It was 12 PM in the noon and we were still 2 KM away from our destination . Mr Chaman said that owing to the slow speed of certain trekkers it would be impossible to touch Har-Ki-Doon and return back in good time . So those who can make it can come with him while the others could stay back with the other trek leaders . Initially 7 out of 9 volunteered to move ahead but while moving ahead I saw that with me being the last it was just 5 who were actually moving ahead along with our snow guide .
Due to cramp sensation I was literally walking at snail's pace as others had left me ahead by quite a distance . I was still not able to lose their sight while following the trail they left behind . However when we were about to reach the patch of alpine trees beneath the black peak , I suddenly lost sight of them . I still continued to walk ahead hoping to catch up with them but all that was in vain . My lunchbox was with one of the guys ahead as I began to feel dizzy and drained owing to such a long walk without a proper meal so far.
 |
| DAY 5 : 12.15 PM . It was a very tiring and exhausting effort to make new trail on an track which has nearly 3 feet of fresh snow . I had cramps in my right leg as we struggled to move forward and were able to crawl barely 5 km after 4 hours of walking. |
 |
| DAY 5 : Finally spotted some Red Flowers in miniature size on the shrubs there ..... Must be some Good Luck omen for sure. |
Even my water supply began to ran out with no accessible water source in the vicinity . The feeling of isolation and abandonment struck me .Anyways as I moved ahead a stunning landscape like never seen before by me began to unfold right before my eyes . The mysterious beauty of Har-Ki-Doon shrouded in snow was speaking both of innocence in her puritan chastity and fear in the way of her arduous appearance . Every moment and every spectacle was spellbinding and despite all the pain was making me move ahead inch by inch closer to this valley molded by God's own grace .
I moved further ahead through the Alpine trees to a point where it was written 'Welcome to Har-Ki-Doon' . Finally I was able to reach the objective of the winter trek . I was satisfied that I was able to make this far but was also feeling sad for not being able to move ahead as I had lost the track of my trek mates and with no one coming from behind to support me . At this time I had to make a decision whether to move ahead or return back . I was already very low on energy and I had the least idea as to how much ahead the expedition team has went ahead . I had enough energy to return back and rejoin those who were left behind .
So after completing the Objective of reaching Har-Ki-Doon I returned back on the very same trail we left behind with mixed emotions of reaching the goal but not spending enough time to experience the moment of success there .
 |
| DAY 5 : River Bed down below covered with thick snow |
 | ||||||
DAY 5 : I was stunned with such landscapes which looked like part of the grand kingdom of Lord Shiva who is the Lord of Light and Master of Darkness
|
 |
| DAY 5 : The Guardians of Har-Ki-Doon Valley with such unique shaped mountain peaks like I have not seen before. |
 |
| DAY 5 : The beauty of Valley is such that it gives an impression of a Valhalla of God Shiva to whom the Himalayas owe a lot of their cultural and spiritual aura. |
I slowly crawled back to the same point where we expected to meet the group left behind . However to my utter shock they had left back for the camp a long time ago . Now left alone and isolated from my trekking team with low energy and cramps in my leg I began to experience the feeling of despair which strikes the mountaineers of the reputation of Toni Kurz felt in the great mountain tragedy of 1936 on Mount Eiger in Switzerland . However optimism got the better of me as I realized that the trekking team which went ahead would be returning back shortly via the same route . I began to wait when at 2 . 15 PM i began to see the glimpses of my trek mates returning back
I was quite happy to see them as my lunch pack was in their custody. I quickly finished my lunch and began rushing back to my forward camp at Kalkattidhar . Around 4.30 PM we reached back in good time as we now had a well crafted trail on which we could tread faster . However the wind became more stronger while returning back as if it was patting the bodies of these new guests in her wilderness . Literally being exhausted the urge to return back to the base was growing quite strong but getting down on slippery snow across narrow paths was proving to be very daunting .
 |
| DAY 5 : Himalayan Peaks surmount the valley like Protectors and Guardians of God's Own Valley |
Keeping focus intact despite a sense of rush inside I slowly began to step down with my trekmates . The jokes and humor on the way down helped in calming the nerves . It was finally 4.30 PM when we touched the base camp which was seeming like the promised land in all it's likelihood .
However the moment of bliss at this new promised land was short lived as we had to fetch wood for a huge bonfire in the night . After a grueling day the mood in the camp was gearing for a memorable night . As we assembled the wood we all were having a sense of relief as it was the time to enjoy as the pressure of completing the daunting task was finally over .
 | ||
DAY 5 : The Mark of Conquest of Har-Ki-Doon Valley
|
As the sun began setting the games began to start .The best one was by Mr Hemang who yielded the idea to be seated in a circle where anyone begins with a sentence and the person sitting next would have to make another sentence in continuity of that till the point we have developed absurd story . There were some michevious elements like me who tried to take the story to a more naughtier shade but there were some good elements who tried their best to put road blocks on that . The result was a complete laugh riot .
Soon we began singing songs . Some of the most catchy songs of the 90s were deliberately brought by people to add spice to an already lively gathering . It is always a marvel to carry speakers at such occasions , as speaker of 'Akshay Jain' became our juke box for the night . We danced and rejoiced in vast valley with no living soul for miles in radius . Songs like 'Jumme Ki Raat' , 'Velle' , 'Angrezi Beat' made almost everyone dance with some of the wackiest moves imaginable .
The night kept on slipping with moon witnessing our celebrations along with his army of stars. It was a party which didn't looked like ending till the point we ran out of wood . Even after that the sense of euphemism was so high that there was giggling and jokes being whispered across the tents sending people into burst of laughter .
This was truly the purpose of the trek where the best of the emotions of a person becomes alive and a person no longer bothers to refrain from expressing them under societal pressure. The strangers whom you met a few days ago become your trusted friends with whom you surrender all inhibitions and become childlike . The joy was boundless and so was the urge to go back to home and tell about the adventures that we had so far . However the trek was still not complete as many new surprises were about to come over way which we left behind so far .
Day 6 : A PLEASANT DEJA VU : "Reverse Gear to Ghanggad "
The morning after an eventful night was a lethagric one . I grabbed my camera as faint sunlight had started showing it's presence in the kingdom of darkness . I began capturing those moments in camera where the empire of Sun begins invading this kingdom ruled by Moon and his army of stars . It was a fabulous experience covering such a consistent play of nature on my camera . However the rapid sunrise was not matched with a rapid rise of the trekkers as for everyone including myself the excitement of the trek had already reached the high water mark on the previous night
 |
| DAY 6 : I spot the Moon Set besides a mountain peak which is witnessing the sun rise |
The snow owing to clear skies was beginning to melt making the trail muddy and slippery at several patches . It was advisable to continue wearing microspikes to ensure safe footings while descending down however the rocks with smooth surfaces had to be addressed carefully as the spikes were rendered useless on them
 |
DAY 6 : The small village of forest authorities called 'Seemantra' which is uninhabited and lies before Vllage Osla |
 |
| DAY 6 : The Temple of Mountain Goddess . One must take blessing here for a safe return |
 |
| DAY 6 : Met the local boys who are all very excellent mountaineers . The people of Osla are mostly belonging to Chandravanshi Rajput Clans hailing themselves as descendants of Pandavas (5 Legendary Indian Warrior brothers who were invincible and also the main heroes of Mahabharata ) |
On being requested for medicines desperately needed by the villagers for common ailments . I along with some of the other trekkers gladly donated medicines to them in view of absolute absence of any medical facility in the region . Meanwhile our trek leaders informed that the place of stay had been shifted to Ghanggad Village which was still further away from Osla .
Without losing much time we immediately embarked on our way back to Ghanggad which we had left completely unexplored previously while going towards Osla . As we crossed the river supin back to the snow clad mountainside on the right we began walking ahead on slippery surface caused by melting of snow everywhere .
At 3 PM we reached 'Ghanggad' Village which was another mountain village built under a rock . We stayed in a cottage opposite the main village on the other side of the mountain . The cottage was a very neat one but we all had been provisioned to sleep in a single room for the night . As we took a brief rest we began to crave for milk and maggi which was running short of supply in our rations . So we all decided to explore the Ghanggad village inorder to fend for supplies from the villagers therein
As we began to cross the river we saw herd of sheep being led by shepherds and women coming over after washing their clothes . The Ghanggad village right from the outset appeared more lively than Osla village . Like in every locality in New Delhi there were separate playing field for boys and girls depending upon their age groups . The little girls got a small section for playing the traditional hoping games while the small boys were playing cricket in small field . However we were astonished to see that there was a very large field turned into a mini cricket ground where big boys were playing cricket with great enthusiasm .
 |
| DAY 6 : The Village elders sitting besides the Temple of Duryodhan . The same Duryodhan who was the main antagonist of Mahabharata fame and was the fabled wicked cousin of Pandavas who fought the Great War of Kurukshetra against his cousin brothers |
 |
| DAY 6 : The cute and aggressive kids showcasing their passion and enthusiasm on my camera ..... Such lovely human expressions over here |
The cricket field also sported an ancient temple dedicated to the Prince Duryodhan who was the chief antagonist of the Mahabharat fame which came to us as a cultural shock . Anyways the villagers despite holding one of the greatest villains in Indian history as their celebrated hero didn't reflected an iota of vileness . They were quite simple and good hearted people . One of them even invited us to his home where we all had maggi along with sheep's milk . The children in the village were very excited to see us and get photographed by us .
The Ghanggad Village truly offered us a novel experience on our way back . The village to my mind is an excellent spot to spend a couple of days amidst the lovely villagers whose hospitality won my heart . As we returned back the sky was lit up by millions of stars which gave an impression as if we were spending the night in a gigantic planeterium . Not only the famous planets could be seen but distant constellations could be spotted with ease making the starry night a delight for sky lovers .
 |
DAY 6 : Locals in Ghanggar much like Osla are shepherds , farmers and wood cutters . The economic condition of Ghanggar seemed much better than Osla |
Outside our cottage we were witnessing this extraordinary night playing games , joking , listening music and dancing . Our trekmate Akshay and trek leader Hemang spent nearly an hour photographing the virgin night sky studded with diamond like stars in it's eniterity . The feeling of being so insignificantly small in face of such a huge cosmos, the glimpse of which was that starry night , is enough to enlarge one's vision about himself and the world around him which cannot be explained in words easily .
 |
| DAY 6 : The Magical spectacle of a starry night above our cottage . Truly how vast is God's creation . (Pic courtesy : Akshay Jain) |
 |
| DAY 6 : Stars looked very different that day :-) (Pic Courtesy : Akshay Jain) |
